其他

世界上气温最低的人类村落

在遥远的西伯利亚,北极圈里,有一个世界上气温最低的人类村落,那里生活着也许是世界上最有生存能力的500个人。这个村子名叫 Oymyakon,隶属于战斗民族——俄罗斯,常年气温保持在零下50度左右,最冷的记录是零下67度,而学校在气温不低于零下40度的情况下是不停课的。在这个村子里,得了冻疮是会死人的。

由于不能种植农作物,村民们生活在“茹毛饮血”的时代中,生肉,马肝是必不可缺的佳肴。村民的食谱也有美味的北极白色三文鱼等一些上等的海鲜,“急冻三文鱼干”是一种极品美食。

一个新西兰的记者对那里的生活非常感兴趣,勇敢地”深入不毛“,去 Oymyakon 体验了一把生活。对他来说,非常遗憾的是不能在街道上随时找人聊天采访,因为大部分时间街上没人,即使有人,他们也总是飞速地从一个温暖的房子奔向另一个温暖的房子。

原文链接:https://www.washingtonpost.com/

抄录:

In the coldest village on Earth, eyelashes freeze, dinner is frozen and temperatures sink to -88F

By Eli Rosenberg

The coldest village on Earth reached minus -88 degrees. Here are three of the coldest places on Earth to live. (Elyse Samuels/The Washington Post)

The coldest village on Earth reached minus -88 degrees. Here are three of the coldest places on Earth to live. (Elyse Samuels/The Washington Post)
In this remote outpost in Siberia, the cold is no small affair.

Eyelashes freeze, frostbite is a constant danger and cars are usually kept running even when not being used, lest their batteries die in temperatures that average minus-58 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter, according to news reports.

This is Oymyakon, a settlement of some 500 people in Russia’s Yakutia region, that has earned the reputation as the coldest permanently occupied human settlement in the world.

It is not a reputation that has been won easily. Earlier this week, a cold snap sent temperatures plunging toward record lows, with reports as extreme as minus-88 degrees Fahrenheit. The village recorded an all-time low of minus-98 degrees in 2013.

Though schools in the area remain open as temperatures dip into the minus-40s, they were closed on Tuesday, the Associated Press reported.

Dark 21 hours a day in the winter, the town has been an object of international curiosity as its reputation for fearsome cold and the resilient residents who withstand it year after year, has grown.

[Watch the amazing moment a ‘rare’ meteor burst across the night sky over Michigan]

Amos Chapple, a photojournalist from New Zealand, traveled to the region in 2015 to capture the subzero way of life. The village is remote, located closer to the Arctic Circle than to the nearest major city, some 500 miles away, and Chapple described an arduous trip to get there to The Washington Post. After a seven-hour flight from Moscow, some 3,300 miles away, he took a van to a nearby gas station and then hitched a ride to the village after two days waiting in a shack and living off reindeer soup.

“After the first couple of days I was physically wrecked just from strolling around the streets for a few hours,” he said.

In this photo taken on Jan. 14, Anastasia Gruzdeva poses for selfie as the temperature dropped to about -58 degrees Fahrenheit in Yakutsk, Russia. (sakhalife.ru photo via AP)
The harsh cold climate permeates nearly every aspect of existence for the people who live in the area.

The winter diet is mostly meat-based, sometimes eaten raw or frozen, due to the inability to grow crops in the frigid temperatures. Some regional specialties include stroganina, which is raw, long-sliced frozen fish; reindeer meat; raw, frozen horse liver, and ice cubes of horse blood with macaroni, according to news reports.

“Yakutians love the cold food, the frozen raw Arctic fish, white salmon, whitefish, frozen raw horse liver, but they are considered to be delicacies,” local Bolot Bochkarev told the Weather Channel. “In daily life, we like eating the soup with meat. The meat is a must. It helps our health much.”

[A man tried to board a flight wearing everything he packed. British Airways gave him the boot.]

Video taken during the cold snap showed a market, open for business on the snowy tundra, frozen fish standing rigidly upright in buckets and boxes, no refrigeration needed.

Customers in heavy winter clothing walked by, one with a child in tow. The narrator said it was minus-56 degrees.

“Here is the treasure,” the video’s narrator said of the whitefish used to make stroganina. He admitted he was getting a bit cold shooting the video.

“While filming the trading rows my hands froze to wild pain. And sellers stand here all day long. How do they warm themselves?” he said, according to the Siberian Times.

The village was once a stopover in the 1920s and ’30s for reindeer herders who would water their flocks at a thermal spring that didn’t freeze. Bathrooms are mostly outhouses; the ground is too frozen for pipes. According to the Weather Channel, the ground has to be warmed with a bonfire to break into, such as for digging a grave.

According to the Siberian Times, two men died after their car stalled and they had set out on foot during the cold streak. The group, a horse breeder and four friends, had gone to check on some animals near the river.

The press office for the region’s governor said that all households and businesses have central heating and backup power generators, according to the Associated Press.

In this photo taken Jan. 14, Anastasia Gruzdeva, left, poses for selfie with her friends as the temperature dropped to about -58 degrees Fahrenheit in Yakutsk, Russia. (sakhalife.ru photo via AP)
After his trip, Chapple said it was not easy doing man-on-the-street interviews in a place that was so cold, as people outside rushed quickly from one warm place to another. Alcoholism is believed to be an issue in the area, Chapple told reporters. Depending on how cold the weather dips, people often trade off 20-minute shifts when doing work outside, according to news reports.

Chapple said saliva would freeze into “needles that would prick my lips.” Shooting was no easier — his camera would constantly get too cold to shoot, he said. The steam escaping his mouth would “swirl around like cigar smoke” he told Wired, so he’d have to hold his breath so it didn’t cloud the frame. He told Wired that he shot one photo without his gloves only to find his thumb partially frozen.

The town wears its reputation on its sleeve: “The pole of the cold,” one sign says.

Read more:

Photos: The coldest town on Earth

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Eli Rosenberg is a reporter on the Washington Post’s General Assignment team. He can be reached at eli.rosenberg@washpost.com
Follow @emrosenberg
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